With nearly three decades and hundreds of exhibitors under its belt, the 2018 Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was set to be one of the year’s greatest watch fairs — and it certainly didn’t disappoint.
As the first few weeks of the year got underway, watch retailers, journalists, and enthusiasts from across the globe gathered in Geneva and witnessed what 35 of watchmaking’s finest brands had to offer.
With companies likes IWC, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Panerai showing off their wares, amidst a backdrop of the enchanting snow-covered Swiss Alps, it was a sight to behold. But don’t fret; we’re ready to bring to you some of the highlights at the same time as breaking down the trends in the watch market for the rest of the year and beyond.
1. Refreshed Chronographs
The chronograph timing watch has been a favourite throughout the years, and this year was no exception. It has, however, received somewhat of a tweak to keep up with modern tastes. At SIHH 2018 we saw bold, sporty styles and sleek, classic cases, as exemplified by brands such as Audemars Piguet, Montblanc and A. Lange & Sohne.
Of particular note was the highly complicated Triple Split Chronograph from A. Lange & Sohne, a sleek and functional timepiece capable of timing two events at the same time for up to twelve hours.
2. Complex Complications
Talking about exceptional complications, complex mechanical functions came out in force this year. Vacheron Constantin showcased a power reserve complication — that indicates how much time is left before your watch will stop due to lack of winding — in their new FiftySix Day-Date watch; and IWC announced a jumping-hour complication — in which the numerical hour is shown window and “jumps” on each hour — to be released later this year.
3. Slimline cases
Perhaps headed by Piaget’s release of the world’s slimmest automatic-winding watch — just 4.30 millimetres thick — sleek and unadorned cases made a strong impression and are a clear, emerging style trend. The Clifton Baumatic from Baume & Mercier and the Drive do Cartier Extra Flat from Cartier both feature incredibly thin cases and create a unique presence on the wrist that is both sleek and stylish.
4. Old updates
With the ever-growing interest in the vintage watch market, it’s no surprise that the overriding theme at SIHH 2018 was on revamping familiar styles and influential watches from the history books. Audemars Piquet showcased a new range of thinner Royal Oak models; Jaeger LeCoultre celebrated 50 years of the Polaris by expanding it into a full range, and Montblanc revealed new 1858 models that draw on the vintage appeal of the now-defunct Minerva brand.
5. Big Moonshots
Geneva is the perfect place for truly out of this world designs, and SIHH 2018 didn’t fail to deliver. The MB&F MoonMachine 2 stole the show with its design that’s so unusual it doesn’t even look like a watch. Defying all traditional notions, it displays the time on the leading edge of the case, allowing its complex workings to take centre stage.
Another name that isn’t a stranger to reaching for the moon, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough, a tonneau-shaped and carbon-cased watch designed for the high-class and rigours of professional Polo.
