Let us take you back to the 60’s. The Beatles hit "Strawberry Fields Forever" is spinning on every turntable from London to Los Angeles, mini skirts are causing scandals on street corners, and somewhere in space, Neil Armstrong is counting down to his date with the moon. The world was electric with possibility. Everything was bold, brash, and beautifully rebellious. Watchmakers were no different, staging their own revolution, ditching the bulky, curved cases of the 50’s for something sleeker, sharper, and undeniably ‘60’s’.
In fact, the 1960s produced some of the most collectible and desired luxury watches ever made, from Rolex developing the Submariner and GMT-Master, to Omega sending the Speedmaster to the Moon. This was a golden age of watchmaking, and masterpieces made during this time are enjoying a 21st-century renaissance, but what’s driving this nostalgic revival, and why are mid-century watches once again in vogue? Let’s delve into the story of 1960s luxury watches and their journey from classic to cult status.
A golden era of design and craftsmanship
The 1960s stand as watchmaking's golden age, marked by the refinement of 1950s models and the debuts of new classics. Unlike today's high-tech manufacturing, these timepieces were created from skilled hands and analog engineering, each carrying the unmistakable character only the human touch can create. The design language was refreshingly honest, with clean lines, balanced dials, and restrained case sizes of 34-38mm that feel almost dainty compared to today's wrist dominating giants. These watches contained acrylic crystal instead of today's sapphire, aluminum bezels rather than modern ceramics, and tritium lume, which has aged into the gorgeous, amber patina collectors now cherish as "wabi-sabi" beauty. Over decades, white dials acquired creamy hues and luminous paint turned gentle amber, telling stories no modern reissue can replicate.
Icons of the decade
These are some of the 60’s icons that are now back in focus, climbing in value as vintage style returns to the spotlight.
Omega Seamaster Automatic Ref. 166.010
While the Speedmaster made lunar history in 1969 strapped to Buzz Aldrin’s wrist, Omega’s other 1960s icon was holding its own back on Earth. The Seamaster 166.010 is a lesson in mid-century versatility. With a 35mm stainless steel case with signature lyre lugs (allegedly penned by Gérald Genta) and a clean silver sunburst dial, powered by the robust Calibre 565 automatic movement. Today, it stands as a timeless entry point into 60s Omega design.
Omega Constellation “C-Case” Ref. 168.017
In the same decade Omega timed the 1968 Mexico City Olympics, it also looked inward, refining its flagship dress chronometer. The Constellation 168.017 brought a futuristic twist to luxury with its flowing “C-shape” stainless steel case and sharp silver dial, anchored by the star at 6 o’clock. Inside, the chronometer-grade Calibre 564 automatic movement delivered cutting edge accuracy.
Rolex Datejust Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1603
While Sean Connery's Bond strapped on a Submariner in “Dr. No” (1962), Rolex released the Datejust 1603, a refined classic for the modern man of the 60s. This reference offered the brand’s iconic 36mm Oyster case, Cyclops magnifier, and a unique engine-turned bezel that gave it a technical edge. The clean black dial with gold markers made it as comfortable under a cuff as it was in the spotlight.
Tudor Prince Oysterdate Ref. 7966
The 60’s was when Tudor began earning its stripes in the field. Its diving watches were issued to the French Navy by the late 60s and the Prince Oysterdate 7966, though dressier, shared the same DNA: a 34mm waterproof Oyster case, screw-down crown, and self-winding rotor movement, topped with a silver dial and the iconic Tudor rose.
The new collector's holy grail
Collectors are flocking back to 60s timepieces, fuelled by nostalgia and a hunger for authenticity that only vintage provides. As GQ notes, many models are “late bloomers”: the exotic-dial Rolex Daytona, ignored in the late ’60s and quietly dropped, became the most coveted watch on Earth once Paul Newman’s name pushed prices sky-high.
Beyond individual models, there’s a broader cultural trend at play. In an age of smartwatches and mass-produced luxury, collectors (including a younger generation raised on the internet), are seeking something unique with a story and soul. Vintage watches offer exactly that: each scratch, each aging nuance tells a story, and no two pieces age identically. The broader fashion world’s retro revival also lends support, think of the return of 60s-style slim suits, or the popularity of shows set in 60s eras, all feeding nostalgia fashion. Watch brands themselves have further stoked interest by releasing heritage reissues and celebrating their archives.
Investment goldmine
It’s not just fashion driving the 1960s watch revival, it’s also the growing investment potential. As demand surges and supply tightens, vintage models from brands like Rolex, Omega, Heuer, and Patek Philippe are fetching eye-watering sums at auction. Rarity, condition, and provenance are key. An original MilSub might command over £150,000, while a clean Submariner 5513 can still be found around £20,000, with strong long-term growth. Some pieces once overlooked, like the Heuer Monaco worn by Steve McQueen or early Paul Newman Daytonas, have exploded in value. Even more accessible models like Omega’s Seamaster 300 or Speedmaster “Ed White” now carry weight with collectors. While not every watch is a goldmine, the right 60s timepiece offers both daily wearability and the thrill of owning a piece of horological history that often appreciates with time.
From heritage reissues to rising auction values, all signs point to one truth: the 60s never went out of style. Collectors just needed time to catch up!
